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| Get on board our joyride through Beirut |
In my early days living in Beirut I blogged about our dicey experience walking around town with our son, who was only 9 months old at the time [you can read it here]. Since then, I learnt a few tips and tricks about how to navigate this city on foot and would like to share these with my fellow disgruntled parents who don’t have the confidence to tour Beirut with young babies and toddlers.
My mission is a genuine need to fill-the-gap with our online expat and tourist community planning to come to Beirut with small children wanting to delve deeper into the city’s many cultural and historic attractions. Whether it’s architecture, outdoor space, creative arts, or healthy eco-food your after, than this guide is for you.
Don’t be stuck in a mall! My hope is to empower parents to get out and discover Beirut on foot, or if you’re not so daring, hop into a service taxi for a few Lebanese Pounds (haggle, haggle, haggle!).
TOP TIPS: Walking around Beirut with a child is not an easy task and is recommended as a two-person job. Avoid walking in the middle of the day during the summer months. And don’t rush it take baby-steps till you get more confident navigating the roads.
All you need is your wits, a light-weight stroller or sling (I can’t stress this enough, your back will be ever so grateful) a smart-phone with GPS (essential - maps are useless here), water, camera, bathers, and a healthy appetite!
View all of the listings mentioned below (and more) on this GoogleMap
Enjoy!
Mum at Large.
View all of the listings mentioned below (and more) on this GoogleMap
Enjoy!
Mum at Large.
ACHRAFIEH
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| St-Nicolas Garden Achrafieh |
*If you are looking for eco-products and organic produce A New Earth Organic Store is in Achrafieh, 65 Zahret el Ihsan Street (very close to ABC Mall) open Monday to Saturday 10am – 7pm.
Walking Tour A
There are some architectural treasures that survived bombings during the civil war, including the grand Sursock Palace and Gardens once the private home of the landowning Sursock family and now a modern art museum; the government office of Palais de Bustros; and Barakat House, currently being redesigned as an urban art and cultural centre called Beit Beirut.
Walking Tour B
Just west of St George Hospital in Getawi District you can wind your way through the undiscovered, narrow residential streets where you will find retired French-speaking ladies, gentlemen and housemaids going about their daily business at a very s.l.o.w pace. On Sundays' the streets are an eerie ghost-town.
If you can ignore the many construction sites, it’s almost believable that time has stood still here. There are several small bakeries serving traditional pizzas, as well as, fruit shops, and novelty brick-a-brack stores in the surrounding streets of Jesuit Garden; a lovely, quiet park to pull-up under a shady tree to eat your delicious goodies.
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| Jesuit Garden: a hidden gem in Achrafieh |
Jesuit Garden is a well-maintained park with an excellent children’s playground (one of very few in Beirut which I also listed on google maps). Opposite the playground are archeological remains from the Ancient Roman period. I’ve found great photographic material here taking snaps of local characters occupying their usual spots.
Walking Tour C
When winding your way down from Achrafieh to Armenia Street towards the neighbourhood of Mar Mikhael (alternative route is to head to Gemmayzeh and Downtown) check out the colourful staircases nestled between shops and apartment, exploding in wonderful mosaic colours. Painting Up Beirut is a community initiative to liven up dull concrete spaces, making your walk experience all the more joyful!
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| One of many colourful stairways in Achrafieh |
MAR MIKHAEL
Mar Mikhael is the new alternative hotspot spilling over from Gemmayzeh’s restaurant & bar area. Traditionally known as a more industrial hub for hardware shops, car parts and furniture, it is fast becoming a culturally and gastronomically diversified hub of eco-friendly restaurants, as well as, bars and galleries showcasing new and established local artists.
The neighbourhood of Mar Mikhael begins at the end of Gemmayzeh Street (aka Gouraud St) near Électricité Du Liban, which becomes Armenia Street (aka Mar Michael Street) and runs down to Nahr Street, which separates it from the Bourj Hammoud neighborhood.
Unforgettable Eco-Dining Experiences
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| Tawlet: serving up mouth-watering Lebanese specialty dishes |
For lunch head to Tawlet. An outstanding Lebanese eco-food dining experience to tickle your tastebuds, presented by Souk el Tayeb Kamal Mouzaeak (see Downtown section for further detail on the farmer’s market). The chef-of-the-day cooks her/his personal and regional specialties with organic produce in an airy surroundings of white tiles, wooden shelves, clever recycled lighting and fresh flowers. Tawlet has an open buffet with authentic salads, mezze, plates and desserts. Wine lovers won’t be disappointed with Tawlet’s wine list and Beer 961.
*Book ahead on weekends call 01 448129 Mon-Fri 1pm- 6pm; Sat 12pm-4pm
For an early dinner delight head to The Junkyard, an underground “pop-up” concept restaurant off Armenia Street, tucked in an old car park facing the old bus graveyard. The recycled-furniture design and layout makes it the perfect wonderland for my son. After a long day’s walk this is the best outdoor place to kick-back in the early evening and have fun with friends.
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| The Junkyard: a backyard hangout space with style |
Having had the chance to talk to Chef Reger a few times, it’s nice to be remembered and welcomed! It’s a delight to sit in the garden area with friends and taste the day’s simple and trendy creations accompanied by calm music for our child to fall asleep to. Bliss.
* Book ahead call 03945961; Mon-Sat from 6pm. Don't hesitate, open till Oct 31 2012.
Local Artistic & Musical Talent
On your way to or from the restaurants in Mar Mikhael stop off at Plan Bey Gallery a small boutique gallery and bookshop, more inclined towards supporting local artists without the mass gallery hype. The friendly staff will give you an insightful background of their artists and works.
I am a music buff and always on the lookout for fresh new sounds and talent. Radio Beirut café-bar hosts live music and artistic performances from emerging and established artists around Beirut and beyond. You’re probably wondering why I’ve included it in my baby-friendly guide? Alas! If going out to see a gig is not an option, don’t fret, this club comes to you! The music is broadcast online live via their digital radio portal. Dance around at home with a glass of your choice in hand while baby’s fast asleep - music to your ears wouldn’t you say?
GEMMAYZEH
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| Charm behind every door. |
A Cool Collective Eating Experience
Located on the calmer side of Gemmayzeh on Pasteur Street is The Gathering, this new concept of collective dining will charm you. Sustainably re-designed around three traditional Lebanese houses, renovated in a tasteful way, each house is devoted to a different service: a pub, a steak house and an Italian kitchen, all connected by one open courtyard. It's great for kids to run around while parents enjoy delectable dishes under the olive tree (don’t forget your camera).
* Open for lunch or dinner. Call 961-156-6196
HAMRA
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| Breeze along The Corniche |
On the west side of Beirut, Hamra Street is often considered the intellectual and business hub of Beirut, thanks to its secular history and proximity to many of Beirut’s most important universities, including the American University of Beirut (AUB). Historically, the abundance of cafés and theatres made Hamra a gathering spot for many Arab thinkers, writers, and artists and was Beirut’s trendiest neighborhood in Lebanon’s 1960–1970s heyday.
The ‘authentic’ appeal of Hamra, in addition to the number of hotels, bars, Western chains like Starbucks, and shops, make the area very appealing to tourists and expats.
Walking Tour A
The Corniche is a baby-stroller breeze! The 5kms stretch of boardwalk begins at St. George Bay and ends at the intersection of Avenue Général de Gaulle and Avenue Rafic Hariri. This palm tree-lined seaside promenade is popular with joggers, cyclists, and families out for a stroll enjoying beautiful views of the Mediterranean.
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| Pigeons' Rock: Beirut's famous landmark |
Walking Tour B
The American University of Beirut (AUB) is one of the oldest and most-respected higher education institutions in Lebanon. Established in 1866, this urban college has a beautiful 61-acre campus overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Pack a picnic, take a stroll around the campus and explore the excellent collection of artifacts at The AUB Archaeological Museum.
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| Lush green grounds of AUB |
For an alternative tour of AUB walk around the parameter walls; it serves as canvas with all graffiti styles on display. And if you are searching for a healthy food alternative among all the fast-food joints along Bliss Street opposite AUB, head straight to Food 101. They serve up sandwiches and salad and hot western food.
The Best Coffee House and Bake House in Beirut
You can smell the nostalgia in the air; imagining artists, poets, and journalists working away on their coffee-stained pages. Thankfully, Café Younes has survived and thrived as a local cultural hub hosting regular cultural activities such as exhibitions, music, and poetry reading.
Bread Republic is an artisan bakery and eatery serving healthy, yeast-free bread, pies, tarts and all things delicious. All-day breakfast and lunch menu is available, including salads, pastas, risottos and sandwiches all made with speciality bread. Bread Republic hosts Souq El Tayab’s farmer’s market every Tuesday.
Photographic Studio, Bistro & Bookshop in One
Located in the heart of Hamra is Dar Bistro on Roma Street, an oasis from the hustle and bustle of Hamra Steet. The peaceful, green-lined courtyard is a lovely place to retreat and eat great food, fine drinks in a friendly atmosphere. Inside the premise is smoke-free and there is a boutique bookshop to browse through a hand-picked selection of titles.
The top floor is taken up by the Dar al Mussawir, a photographic community space hosting workshops and organises a monthly exhibition in the bistro.
*Call 01 37 33 48 or 01 76 15 84 29
DOWNTOWN
Love it or loath it, the shiny new heart of Beirut has risen from the rubble. For many years during and after the war this was a no-man’s land until it was rebuild largely by one developer, Solidere. Many of the buildings left standing have been caught in a demolish-or-renovate battle, resulting in a mix of old and new, and Eastern and Western architecture styles.
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| The Heart of Downtown |
I will not go into detail here about this well covered tourist spot but I will suggest visiting Ottsworld blog-post WalkBeirut . This is the best, comprehensive explanation of Sherry’s experience with Walking Tour of Beirut. You may not be aware that children under 12, babies in strollers or straps, are not permitted on the Walking Tour, but don’t let that spoil your fun! Why not load Sherry’s post on your smart phone, and use it as your guide of Downtown and many of the locations I have listed above? (If you enjoyed her tour, send her warm ‘thank you’ because she has done us parents a huge favour.)
Organic Farmer's Market Lebanese Style
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| Souk el Tayeb, food from the farm straight to you. |
Laze By The Pool, Common You Deserve It!
Once you have well and truly done with walking around town, it’s time to relax by a pool and pat yourself on the back! There are many swimming clubs along the Corniche. Closest to Downtown is St George Yacht Club. For a modest fee (take this with a grain of salt) St George is a family friendly swimming club recently renovated with three pools, green grass to laze on, children’s playground and restaurant. The club has a marina linking to the upmarket promenade of Zaytouna Bay.
--> Goodluck! Let us know how you went with your own discovery of Beirut. And feel free to add further suggestions in the comments box to share with our fabulous expat family community.
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Selected writings credit:
Design Sponge: Lebanon City GuideTimeOut Beirut
Beirut.com
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