Comings and Goings

The conversation always begins with:

"How long have you been here?"

“Four months, What about you? How long are you here for?"

"Our contract's up in December, but we're hoping to renew."

There’s a hesitation. What does that mean? Am I going to learn all about her, like her, laugh with her, adore her children, and then have to wave her goodbye in few months?

"We're pretty sure it will be renewed "

They both nervously smile.

And then the conversation moves to a comfortable place. They talk about the house, the kids, the adjustment. They are both in the same position, far from home and making their way through each day trying to work out what the new rules are.

They both laugh about the near death experience crossing the road that morning, or fume over the deep injustice when some stranger stops them dead in their track to remind them that they're a bad mother:

“Are YOU going to put a hat on THAT child? Haram!” arms flailing.
What they don’t know is the tug-of-war that goes on with that child to keep their hat on before leaving the house. Every. Single. Day!

They laugh and then they exchange numbers.

They both left the table realising that she laughed for the first time in a week. And often what was making her laugh were the same things that had made her cry earlier that day when she'd thought of going straight to the airport to head home.

She is going to be okay. She has a friend.

Making new friends is an essential part to expat survival. When you're new, your criteria of making new friends cannot be named, it comes in the form of a sign, a similarity, a possible connection. Eye contact and a smile can provide an immediate feeling that things will be okay, that this move will be fine. People are friendly here.

I'm now in that happy place that comes at the four-month mark. The apartment is becoming to feel more like our home, I have a few favourite haunts, and few friends to text when I need to escape with for a coffee or a weekend getaway.

But since last Friday, I am now also acutely aware of the sadness that arrives with news that a friend is moving on. Goodbye is hard and the idea of saying goodbye to new acquaintances here fills me with dread.

Being ‘the leaver’ is a lot easier than being the person left behind. When you're left behind you will find yourself constantly reminded of things you did with a friend, reminders that they are no longer here anymore. That brief flash of excitement when you think of that restaurant, that concert, that dinner party.

Losing a friend to another country means you are left with the option of going it alone, or putting yourself back out there in the world of introductions.

So, if you're new in town, I'm looking for you! And if you're not new here, but you're new somewhere else, don't worry, it'll get better, it will become easier. I promise.

Discover Beirut: A Guide for Parents with Baby-in-tow

Get on board our joyride through Beirut

Welcome to my urban guide of Beirut for parents with young kiddies. We all know (or will soon find out) there is a lack of green, baby-friendly, eco-food-friendly, cultural places around Beirut - but I am about the challenge this notion!

In my early days living in Beirut I blogged about our dicey experience walking around town with our son, who was only 9 months old at the time [you can read it here]. Since then, I learnt a few tips and tricks about how to navigate this city on foot and would like to share these with my fellow disgruntled parents who don’t have the confidence to tour Beirut with young babies and toddlers.

 My mission is a genuine need to fill-the-gap with our online expat and tourist community planning to come to Beirut with small children wanting to delve deeper into the city’s many cultural and historic attractions. Whether it’s architecture, outdoor space, creative arts, or healthy eco-food your after, than this guide is for you.

Don’t be stuck in a mall! My hope is to empower parents to get out and discover Beirut on foot, or if you’re not so daring, hop into a service taxi for a few Lebanese Pounds (haggle, haggle, haggle!).

TOP TIPS: Walking around Beirut with a child is not an easy task and is recommended as a two-person job. Avoid walking in the middle of the day during the summer months. And don’t rush it take baby-steps till you get more confident navigating the roads.

All you need is your wits, a light-weight stroller or sling (I can’t stress this enough, your back will be ever so grateful) a smart-phone with GPS (essential - maps are useless here), water, camera, bathers, and a healthy appetite!

View all of the listings mentioned below (and more) on this GoogleMap  
Enjoy!
Mum at Large.

ACHRAFIEH

St-Nicolas Garden Achrafieh

Achrafieh is one of the oldest, historically Christian neighborhoods in east Beirut with a distinct French flavor. Neo-Ottoman styled homes, elegant mansions & towering modern residences line the narrow, winding streets that house a multitude of shops*, restaurants, cafés and many old churches like the St. Nicholas Cathedral, built in 1876.

*If you are looking for eco-products and organic produce A New Earth Organic Store is in Achrafieh, 65 Zahret el Ihsan Street (very close to ABC Mall) open Monday to Saturday 10am – 7pm.

Walking Tour A

There are some architectural treasures that survived bombings during the civil war, including the grand Sursock Palace and Gardens once the private home of the landowning Sursock family and now a modern art museum; the government office of Palais de Bustros; and Barakat House, currently being redesigned as an urban art and cultural centre called Beit Beirut.

Walking Tour B

Just west of St George Hospital in Getawi District you can wind your way through the undiscovered, narrow residential streets where you will find retired French-speaking ladies, gentlemen and housemaids going about their daily business at a very s.l.o.w pace. On Sundays' the streets are an eerie ghost-town.

If you can ignore the many construction sites, it’s almost believable that time has stood still here. There are several small bakeries serving traditional pizzas, as well as, fruit shops, and novelty brick-a-brack stores in the surrounding streets of Jesuit Garden; a lovely, quiet park to pull-up under a shady tree to eat your delicious goodies.

Jesuit Garden: a hidden gem in Achrafieh

Jesuit Garden is a well-maintained park with an excellent children’s playground (one of very few in Beirut which I also listed on google maps). Opposite the playground are archeological remains from the Ancient Roman period. I’ve found great photographic material here taking snaps of local characters occupying their usual spots.

Walking Tour C

When winding your way down from Achrafieh to Armenia Street towards the neighbourhood of Mar Mikhael (alternative route is to head to Gemmayzeh and Downtown) check out the colourful staircases nestled between shops and apartment, exploding in wonderful mosaic colours. Painting Up Beirut is a community initiative to liven up dull concrete spaces, making your walk experience all the more joyful!

One of many colourful stairways in Achrafieh

MAR MIKHAEL

Mar Mikhael is the new alternative hotspot spilling over from Gemmayzeh’s restaurant & bar area. Traditionally known as a more industrial hub for hardware shops, car parts and furniture, it is fast becoming a culturally and gastronomically diversified hub of eco-friendly restaurants, as well as, bars and galleries showcasing new and established local artists.

The neighbourhood of Mar Mikhael begins at the end of Gemmayzeh Street (aka Gouraud St) near Électricité Du Liban, which becomes Armenia Street (aka Mar Michael Street) and runs down to Nahr Street, which separates it from the Bourj Hammoud neighborhood.

Unforgettable Eco-Dining Experiences

Tawlet: serving up mouth-watering Lebanese specialty dishes

For lunch head to Tawlet. An outstanding Lebanese eco-food dining experience to tickle your tastebuds, presented by Souk el Tayeb Kamal Mouzaeak (see Downtown section for further detail on the farmer’s market). The chef-of-the-day cooks her/his personal and regional specialties with organic produce in an airy surroundings of white tiles, wooden shelves, clever recycled lighting and fresh flowers. Tawlet has an open buffet with authentic salads, mezze, plates and desserts. Wine lovers won’t be disappointed with Tawlet’s wine list and Beer 961.

*Book ahead on weekends call 01 448129 Mon-Fri 1pm- 6pm; Sat 12pm-4pm

For an early dinner delight head to The Junkyard, an underground “pop-up” concept restaurant off Armenia Street, tucked in an old car park facing the old bus graveyard. The recycled-furniture design and layout makes it the perfect wonderland for my son. After a long day’s walk this is the best outdoor place to kick-back in the early evening and have fun with friends.

The Junkyard: a backyard hangout space with style

The Junkyard is owned by Chef Tomas Reger, executive chef of Le Sushi bar in Achrafieh, and Mario Jr. Haddad. Integrating their slow-food movement ‘Food For Thought’, the menu changes daily depending on the fresh produce and other ingredients available at the market.

Having had the chance to talk to Chef Reger a few times, it’s nice to be remembered and welcomed! It’s a delight to sit in the garden area with friends and taste the day’s simple and trendy creations accompanied by calm music for our child to fall asleep to. Bliss.

* Book ahead call 03945961; Mon-Sat from 6pm. Don't hesitate, open till Oct 31 2012.

Local Artistic & Musical Talent

On your way to or from the restaurants in Mar Mikhael stop off at Plan Bey Gallery a small boutique gallery and bookshop, more inclined towards supporting local artists without the mass gallery hype. The friendly staff will give you an insightful background of their artists and works.

I am a music buff and always on the lookout for fresh new sounds and talent. Radio Beirut café-bar hosts live music and artistic performances from emerging and established artists around Beirut and beyond. You’re probably wondering why I’ve included it in my baby-friendly guide? Alas! If going out to see a gig is not an option, don’t fret, this club comes to you! The music is broadcast online live via their digital radio portal. Dance around at home with a glass of your choice in hand while baby’s fast asleep - music to your ears wouldn’t you say?

GEMMAYZEH

Charm behind every door.

A fairly short walk from Downtown city center are Gemmayzeh & Monot, which is technically in Achrafieh. Gemmayzeh Street contains a large portion of Beirut’s clubs, cafes and restaurants. During the day it’s relatively quiet so it’s easy to walk around the neighborhood to photograph the beautiful historic buildings or rummage through antique stores, homeware and souvenir shops. The best equipped souvenir shop is L’Artisanat Libanai and sales support Lebanese craftsmen in need.

A Cool Collective Eating Experience 

Located on the calmer side of Gemmayzeh on Pasteur Street is The Gathering, this new concept of collective dining will charm you. Sustainably re-designed around three traditional Lebanese houses, renovated in a tasteful way, each house is devoted to a different service: a pub, a steak house and an Italian kitchen, all connected by one open courtyard. It's great for kids to run around while parents enjoy delectable dishes under the olive tree (don’t forget your camera).

* Open for lunch or dinner. Call 961-156-6196

HAMRA

Breeze along The Corniche

On the west side of Beirut, Hamra Street is often considered the intellectual and business hub of Beirut, thanks to its secular history and proximity to many of Beirut’s most important universities, including the American University of Beirut (AUB). Historically, the abundance of cafés and theatres made Hamra a gathering spot for many Arab thinkers, writers, and artists and was Beirut’s trendiest neighborhood in Lebanon’s 1960–1970s heyday.

The ‘authentic’ appeal of Hamra, in addition to the number of hotels, bars, Western chains like Starbucks, and shops, make the area very appealing to tourists and expats.

Walking Tour A

The Corniche is a baby-stroller breeze! The 5kms stretch of boardwalk begins at St. George Bay and ends at the intersection of Avenue Général de Gaulle and Avenue Rafic Hariri. This palm tree-lined seaside promenade is popular with joggers, cyclists, and families out for a stroll enjoying beautiful views of the Mediterranean.

Pigeons' Rock: Beirut's famous landmark

The two huge rock formations at Raouché, known as Pigeons’ Rock, jut out of the sea next to the Corniche. There are plenty of cafés with a view of Pigeons’ Rock — try timing your visit with the sunset or sunrise for a great photo op.

Walking Tour B

The American University of Beirut (AUB) is one of the oldest and most-respected higher education institutions in Lebanon. Established in 1866, this urban college has a beautiful 61-acre campus overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Pack a picnic, take a stroll around the campus and explore the excellent collection of artifacts at The AUB Archaeological Museum.

Lush green grounds of AUB

For an alternative tour of AUB walk around the parameter walls; it serves as canvas with all graffiti styles on display. And if you are searching for a healthy food alternative among all the fast-food joints along Bliss Street opposite AUB, head straight to Food 101. They serve up sandwiches and salad and hot western food.

The Best Coffee House and Bake House in Beirut

There is only one café in Beiut in my opinion that takes their coffee as seriously as I do Café Younes. Since 1935 barristers continue serve up high quality coffee that is freshly roasted and ground on the premises. Café Younes is a smoke-free coffee house that you could consider as your second home - I do!

You can smell the nostalgia in the air; imagining artists, poets, and journalists working away on their coffee-stained pages. Thankfully, Café Younes has survived and thrived as a local cultural hub hosting regular cultural activities such as exhibitions, music, and poetry reading.

Bread Republic is an artisan bakery and eatery serving healthy, yeast-free bread, pies, tarts and all things delicious. All-day breakfast and lunch menu is available, including salads, pastas, risottos and sandwiches all made with speciality bread. Bread Republic hosts Souq El Tayab’s farmer’s market every Tuesday.

Photographic Studio,  Bistro & Bookshop in One

Located in the heart of Hamra is Dar Bistro on Roma Street, an oasis from the hustle and bustle of Hamra Steet. The peaceful, green-lined courtyard is a lovely place to retreat and eat great food, fine drinks in a friendly atmosphere. Inside the premise is smoke-free and there is a boutique bookshop to browse through a hand-picked selection of titles.

The top floor is taken up by the Dar al Mussawir, a photographic community space hosting workshops and organises a monthly exhibition in the bistro.

*Call 01 37 33 48 or 01 76 15 84 29

DOWNTOWN

Love it or loath it, the shiny new heart of Beirut has risen from the rubble. For many years during and after the war this was a no-man’s land until it was rebuild largely by one developer, Solidere. Many of the buildings left standing have been caught in a demolish-or-renovate battle, resulting in a mix of old and new, and Eastern and Western architecture styles.

The Heart of Downtown

I will not go into detail here about this well covered tourist spot but I will suggest visiting Ottsworld blog-post WalkBeirut . This is the best, comprehensive explanation of Sherry’s experience with Walking Tour of Beirut. You may not be aware that children under 12, babies in strollers or straps, are not permitted on the Walking Tour, but don’t let that spoil your fun! Why not load Sherry’s post on your smart phone, and use it as your guide of Downtown and many of the locations I have listed above? (If you enjoyed her tour, send her warm ‘thank you’ because she has done us parents a huge favour.)

Organic Farmer's Market Lebanese Style

Souk el Tayeb, food from the farm straight to you.

My suggestion is go early Saturday morning for a tour around Downtown to catch the morning light for best photographic op, and once your done, head to Souk El Tayeb for brunch at Beirut Souqs a real farmers’ markets where the actual producers come in from the countryside with fresh vegetables, preserves, fruits and natural remedies.

Laze By The Pool, Common You Deserve It!

Once you have well and truly done with walking around town, it’s time to relax by a pool and pat yourself on the back! There are many swimming clubs along the Corniche. Closest to Downtown is St George Yacht Club. For a modest fee (take this with a grain of salt) St George is a family friendly swimming club recently renovated with three pools, green grass to laze on, children’s playground and restaurant. The club has a marina linking to the upmarket promenade of Zaytouna Bay.

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Goodluck! Let us know how you went with your own discovery of Beirut. And feel free to add further suggestions in the comments box to share with our fabulous expat family community.

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Selected writings credit:
Design Sponge: Lebanon City GuideTimeOut Beirut
Beirut.com