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Denial of Moving On

little helper packing up the apartment.

I've been telling myself for the past three months to stop thinking about our departure date. I wanted to just enjoy what was happening now, and not think about our time in Lebanon coming to an end.

After that fatal car bomb that rocked Lebanon back in October, our decision to leave was thrown back-and-forth. The constant weighting up of pros and con was tearing us apart. I’ve learned it doesn’t matter where you are in the world it’s the same three factors when it’s not only your decision – family, work, lifestyle.

Lebanon stabilized quickly after the incident and we returned to our daily routines as ‘normal’ as could be. Mikey’s contract was due for renewal & we were keen to rollover into another year working in Beirut. However, biggest bombshell dropped on us was the news of another baby on the way!!

Completely caught off guard with the idea of another little traveler on board, and we found ourselves agreeing that moving closer to family for support was the right decision for us, “even if it’s temporary” I reassure myself.

In my denial about leaving, I kept telling myself “Beirut is not over yet, no need to pack now” but there was an apartment to pack up and supplies in the kitchen cupboard to be eaten served as a reminder.

“10 cans of foul madams to get though (Middle-Eastern baked beans). Should I take a few cans with us to Switzerland?”

The mental list of what will stay and what will go lengthened as I made my way from one room to another. Will shoes be sacrificed for toys? Leave the towels, take the toothbrushes…but no action was taken… “Beirut is not over yet, no need to pack now.”

While packing decisions seemed so daunting, I threw myself into several creative projects that consumed all my time right up to our last days. Knowing that I was leaving town (even if it’s temporary) was the push that I needed to act on my dream projects that I always feared or doubted I couldn’t do. Faced with “now or never”, I went head-on into my work knowing I had nothing to loose.

I lead my first photo essay workshop and photography exhibition titled Lens on Life, filmed a short doco on Lebanese artist Rafik Majzoub and worked alongside prominent Lebanese documentary filmmaker Carol Mansour. Working alongside some of the most inspiring, intelligent, and honest women I’ve ever met has been a positive life-changing experience which I will be forever thankful.

And the results amazed me I’m proud to say. It’s the most exciting work I’ve done in years. As it turns out, I always had a strong sense of self, a sense of my personal limitations and boundaries I could push if I had the confidence. I just had to learn how to listen to myself and how to express it.

That’s the very reason why I love traveling it’s the learning experience of living with the UNCOMFORTABLE that continues to help transform yourself and your relationships with our family, friends and work.

We landed in Lebanon in a place of self-doubt, uncomfortable with our new surroundings, no bearings, no signposts. The exhaustion that comes with constantly getting lost and feeling frazzled can be erased with one decent short conversation that ends with a "we should catch up, what's your number?" We plunged ourselves into Beirut, new house, new acquaintances, a brand new life.

I still had the feeling I wasn’t ready to leave, but the decision was made and we’d given notice to our landlord. The weeks quickly counted down to days and the melancholy of knowing what's about to be missed settled in like one of Lebanon’s ominous storm clouds.

 While you're handing over the keys, your trying to disconnect your heart from the neighbourhood you've grown to love, the people you used to greet in the elevator and at the local grocer everyday. 

Farewell to dear friends at the nursery

We’re not going to see Mateo’s friendships grow and bloom, he won't be stoping in for a treat at the corner store again.

One last treat yippee!

My thoughts tried to savor each final moment. “Tonight is our last night in the apartment. Tomorrow we will walk the Corniche one last time, go to Café Younes for one last coffee, and then we’ll spend our last night in Hamra and share a last meal with friends.”

Seven bags with all our belongings and a truckload of memories are squeezed into two taxis heading for the airport. Looking across at Mikey holding his hand, he says “I don’t know how expats do this all the time. I’m never bloody moving again” I laughed, but there were tears forming. Cities are flashing through my mind, we’ve been here before, and we will be here again, we wouldn’t give it up for the world.

A new adventure, a new baby, is exciting, terrifying and exhilarating. Stepping forward and moving on, means that that something is being left behind. And sometimes it would just be so nice to take it all with you.

Comings and Goings

The conversation always begins with:

"How long have you been here?"

“Four months, What about you? How long are you here for?"

"Our contract's up in December, but we're hoping to renew."

There’s a hesitation. What does that mean? Am I going to learn all about her, like her, laugh with her, adore her children, and then have to wave her goodbye in few months?

"We're pretty sure it will be renewed "

They both nervously smile.

And then the conversation moves to a comfortable place. They talk about the house, the kids, the adjustment. They are both in the same position, far from home and making their way through each day trying to work out what the new rules are.

They both laugh about the near death experience crossing the road that morning, or fume over the deep injustice when some stranger stops them dead in their track to remind them that they're a bad mother:

“Are YOU going to put a hat on THAT child? Haram!” arms flailing.
What they don’t know is the tug-of-war that goes on with that child to keep their hat on before leaving the house. Every. Single. Day!

They laugh and then they exchange numbers.

They both left the table realising that she laughed for the first time in a week. And often what was making her laugh were the same things that had made her cry earlier that day when she'd thought of going straight to the airport to head home.

She is going to be okay. She has a friend.

Making new friends is an essential part to expat survival. When you're new, your criteria of making new friends cannot be named, it comes in the form of a sign, a similarity, a possible connection. Eye contact and a smile can provide an immediate feeling that things will be okay, that this move will be fine. People are friendly here.

I'm now in that happy place that comes at the four-month mark. The apartment is becoming to feel more like our home, I have a few favourite haunts, and few friends to text when I need to escape with for a coffee or a weekend getaway.

But since last Friday, I am now also acutely aware of the sadness that arrives with news that a friend is moving on. Goodbye is hard and the idea of saying goodbye to new acquaintances here fills me with dread.

Being ‘the leaver’ is a lot easier than being the person left behind. When you're left behind you will find yourself constantly reminded of things you did with a friend, reminders that they are no longer here anymore. That brief flash of excitement when you think of that restaurant, that concert, that dinner party.

Losing a friend to another country means you are left with the option of going it alone, or putting yourself back out there in the world of introductions.

So, if you're new in town, I'm looking for you! And if you're not new here, but you're new somewhere else, don't worry, it'll get better, it will become easier. I promise.

Discover Beirut: A Guide for Parents with Baby-in-tow

Get on board our joyride through Beirut

Welcome to my urban guide of Beirut for parents with young kiddies. We all know (or will soon find out) there is a lack of green, baby-friendly, eco-food-friendly, cultural places around Beirut - but I am about the challenge this notion!

In my early days living in Beirut I blogged about our dicey experience walking around town with our son, who was only 9 months old at the time [you can read it here]. Since then, I learnt a few tips and tricks about how to navigate this city on foot and would like to share these with my fellow disgruntled parents who don’t have the confidence to tour Beirut with young babies and toddlers.

 My mission is a genuine need to fill-the-gap with our online expat and tourist community planning to come to Beirut with small children wanting to delve deeper into the city’s many cultural and historic attractions. Whether it’s architecture, outdoor space, creative arts, or healthy eco-food your after, than this guide is for you.

Don’t be stuck in a mall! My hope is to empower parents to get out and discover Beirut on foot, or if you’re not so daring, hop into a service taxi for a few Lebanese Pounds (haggle, haggle, haggle!).

TOP TIPS: Walking around Beirut with a child is not an easy task and is recommended as a two-person job. Avoid walking in the middle of the day during the summer months. And don’t rush it take baby-steps till you get more confident navigating the roads.

All you need is your wits, a light-weight stroller or sling (I can’t stress this enough, your back will be ever so grateful) a smart-phone with GPS (essential - maps are useless here), water, camera, bathers, and a healthy appetite!

View all of the listings mentioned below (and more) on this GoogleMap  
Enjoy!
Mum at Large.

ACHRAFIEH

St-Nicolas Garden Achrafieh

Achrafieh is one of the oldest, historically Christian neighborhoods in east Beirut with a distinct French flavor. Neo-Ottoman styled homes, elegant mansions & towering modern residences line the narrow, winding streets that house a multitude of shops*, restaurants, cafés and many old churches like the St. Nicholas Cathedral, built in 1876.

*If you are looking for eco-products and organic produce A New Earth Organic Store is in Achrafieh, 65 Zahret el Ihsan Street (very close to ABC Mall) open Monday to Saturday 10am – 7pm.

Walking Tour A

There are some architectural treasures that survived bombings during the civil war, including the grand Sursock Palace and Gardens once the private home of the landowning Sursock family and now a modern art museum; the government office of Palais de Bustros; and Barakat House, currently being redesigned as an urban art and cultural centre called Beit Beirut.

Walking Tour B

Just west of St George Hospital in Getawi District you can wind your way through the undiscovered, narrow residential streets where you will find retired French-speaking ladies, gentlemen and housemaids going about their daily business at a very s.l.o.w pace. On Sundays' the streets are an eerie ghost-town.

If you can ignore the many construction sites, it’s almost believable that time has stood still here. There are several small bakeries serving traditional pizzas, as well as, fruit shops, and novelty brick-a-brack stores in the surrounding streets of Jesuit Garden; a lovely, quiet park to pull-up under a shady tree to eat your delicious goodies.

Jesuit Garden: a hidden gem in Achrafieh

Jesuit Garden is a well-maintained park with an excellent children’s playground (one of very few in Beirut which I also listed on google maps). Opposite the playground are archeological remains from the Ancient Roman period. I’ve found great photographic material here taking snaps of local characters occupying their usual spots.

Walking Tour C

When winding your way down from Achrafieh to Armenia Street towards the neighbourhood of Mar Mikhael (alternative route is to head to Gemmayzeh and Downtown) check out the colourful staircases nestled between shops and apartment, exploding in wonderful mosaic colours. Painting Up Beirut is a community initiative to liven up dull concrete spaces, making your walk experience all the more joyful!

One of many colourful stairways in Achrafieh

MAR MIKHAEL

Mar Mikhael is the new alternative hotspot spilling over from Gemmayzeh’s restaurant & bar area. Traditionally known as a more industrial hub for hardware shops, car parts and furniture, it is fast becoming a culturally and gastronomically diversified hub of eco-friendly restaurants, as well as, bars and galleries showcasing new and established local artists.

The neighbourhood of Mar Mikhael begins at the end of Gemmayzeh Street (aka Gouraud St) near Électricité Du Liban, which becomes Armenia Street (aka Mar Michael Street) and runs down to Nahr Street, which separates it from the Bourj Hammoud neighborhood.

Unforgettable Eco-Dining Experiences

Tawlet: serving up mouth-watering Lebanese specialty dishes

For lunch head to Tawlet. An outstanding Lebanese eco-food dining experience to tickle your tastebuds, presented by Souk el Tayeb Kamal Mouzaeak (see Downtown section for further detail on the farmer’s market). The chef-of-the-day cooks her/his personal and regional specialties with organic produce in an airy surroundings of white tiles, wooden shelves, clever recycled lighting and fresh flowers. Tawlet has an open buffet with authentic salads, mezze, plates and desserts. Wine lovers won’t be disappointed with Tawlet’s wine list and Beer 961.

*Book ahead on weekends call 01 448129 Mon-Fri 1pm- 6pm; Sat 12pm-4pm

For an early dinner delight head to The Junkyard, an underground “pop-up” concept restaurant off Armenia Street, tucked in an old car park facing the old bus graveyard. The recycled-furniture design and layout makes it the perfect wonderland for my son. After a long day’s walk this is the best outdoor place to kick-back in the early evening and have fun with friends.

The Junkyard: a backyard hangout space with style

The Junkyard is owned by Chef Tomas Reger, executive chef of Le Sushi bar in Achrafieh, and Mario Jr. Haddad. Integrating their slow-food movement ‘Food For Thought’, the menu changes daily depending on the fresh produce and other ingredients available at the market.

Having had the chance to talk to Chef Reger a few times, it’s nice to be remembered and welcomed! It’s a delight to sit in the garden area with friends and taste the day’s simple and trendy creations accompanied by calm music for our child to fall asleep to. Bliss.

* Book ahead call 03945961; Mon-Sat from 6pm. Don't hesitate, open till Oct 31 2012.

Local Artistic & Musical Talent

On your way to or from the restaurants in Mar Mikhael stop off at Plan Bey Gallery a small boutique gallery and bookshop, more inclined towards supporting local artists without the mass gallery hype. The friendly staff will give you an insightful background of their artists and works.

I am a music buff and always on the lookout for fresh new sounds and talent. Radio Beirut café-bar hosts live music and artistic performances from emerging and established artists around Beirut and beyond. You’re probably wondering why I’ve included it in my baby-friendly guide? Alas! If going out to see a gig is not an option, don’t fret, this club comes to you! The music is broadcast online live via their digital radio portal. Dance around at home with a glass of your choice in hand while baby’s fast asleep - music to your ears wouldn’t you say?

GEMMAYZEH

Charm behind every door.

A fairly short walk from Downtown city center are Gemmayzeh & Monot, which is technically in Achrafieh. Gemmayzeh Street contains a large portion of Beirut’s clubs, cafes and restaurants. During the day it’s relatively quiet so it’s easy to walk around the neighborhood to photograph the beautiful historic buildings or rummage through antique stores, homeware and souvenir shops. The best equipped souvenir shop is L’Artisanat Libanai and sales support Lebanese craftsmen in need.

A Cool Collective Eating Experience 

Located on the calmer side of Gemmayzeh on Pasteur Street is The Gathering, this new concept of collective dining will charm you. Sustainably re-designed around three traditional Lebanese houses, renovated in a tasteful way, each house is devoted to a different service: a pub, a steak house and an Italian kitchen, all connected by one open courtyard. It's great for kids to run around while parents enjoy delectable dishes under the olive tree (don’t forget your camera).

* Open for lunch or dinner. Call 961-156-6196

HAMRA

Breeze along The Corniche

On the west side of Beirut, Hamra Street is often considered the intellectual and business hub of Beirut, thanks to its secular history and proximity to many of Beirut’s most important universities, including the American University of Beirut (AUB). Historically, the abundance of cafés and theatres made Hamra a gathering spot for many Arab thinkers, writers, and artists and was Beirut’s trendiest neighborhood in Lebanon’s 1960–1970s heyday.

The ‘authentic’ appeal of Hamra, in addition to the number of hotels, bars, Western chains like Starbucks, and shops, make the area very appealing to tourists and expats.

Walking Tour A

The Corniche is a baby-stroller breeze! The 5kms stretch of boardwalk begins at St. George Bay and ends at the intersection of Avenue Général de Gaulle and Avenue Rafic Hariri. This palm tree-lined seaside promenade is popular with joggers, cyclists, and families out for a stroll enjoying beautiful views of the Mediterranean.

Pigeons' Rock: Beirut's famous landmark

The two huge rock formations at Raouché, known as Pigeons’ Rock, jut out of the sea next to the Corniche. There are plenty of cafés with a view of Pigeons’ Rock — try timing your visit with the sunset or sunrise for a great photo op.

Walking Tour B

The American University of Beirut (AUB) is one of the oldest and most-respected higher education institutions in Lebanon. Established in 1866, this urban college has a beautiful 61-acre campus overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Pack a picnic, take a stroll around the campus and explore the excellent collection of artifacts at The AUB Archaeological Museum.

Lush green grounds of AUB

For an alternative tour of AUB walk around the parameter walls; it serves as canvas with all graffiti styles on display. And if you are searching for a healthy food alternative among all the fast-food joints along Bliss Street opposite AUB, head straight to Food 101. They serve up sandwiches and salad and hot western food.

The Best Coffee House and Bake House in Beirut

There is only one café in Beiut in my opinion that takes their coffee as seriously as I do Café Younes. Since 1935 barristers continue serve up high quality coffee that is freshly roasted and ground on the premises. Café Younes is a smoke-free coffee house that you could consider as your second home - I do!

You can smell the nostalgia in the air; imagining artists, poets, and journalists working away on their coffee-stained pages. Thankfully, Café Younes has survived and thrived as a local cultural hub hosting regular cultural activities such as exhibitions, music, and poetry reading.

Bread Republic is an artisan bakery and eatery serving healthy, yeast-free bread, pies, tarts and all things delicious. All-day breakfast and lunch menu is available, including salads, pastas, risottos and sandwiches all made with speciality bread. Bread Republic hosts Souq El Tayab’s farmer’s market every Tuesday.

Photographic Studio,  Bistro & Bookshop in One

Located in the heart of Hamra is Dar Bistro on Roma Street, an oasis from the hustle and bustle of Hamra Steet. The peaceful, green-lined courtyard is a lovely place to retreat and eat great food, fine drinks in a friendly atmosphere. Inside the premise is smoke-free and there is a boutique bookshop to browse through a hand-picked selection of titles.

The top floor is taken up by the Dar al Mussawir, a photographic community space hosting workshops and organises a monthly exhibition in the bistro.

*Call 01 37 33 48 or 01 76 15 84 29

DOWNTOWN

Love it or loath it, the shiny new heart of Beirut has risen from the rubble. For many years during and after the war this was a no-man’s land until it was rebuild largely by one developer, Solidere. Many of the buildings left standing have been caught in a demolish-or-renovate battle, resulting in a mix of old and new, and Eastern and Western architecture styles.

The Heart of Downtown

I will not go into detail here about this well covered tourist spot but I will suggest visiting Ottsworld blog-post WalkBeirut . This is the best, comprehensive explanation of Sherry’s experience with Walking Tour of Beirut. You may not be aware that children under 12, babies in strollers or straps, are not permitted on the Walking Tour, but don’t let that spoil your fun! Why not load Sherry’s post on your smart phone, and use it as your guide of Downtown and many of the locations I have listed above? (If you enjoyed her tour, send her warm ‘thank you’ because she has done us parents a huge favour.)

Organic Farmer's Market Lebanese Style

Souk el Tayeb, food from the farm straight to you.

My suggestion is go early Saturday morning for a tour around Downtown to catch the morning light for best photographic op, and once your done, head to Souk El Tayeb for brunch at Beirut Souqs a real farmers’ markets where the actual producers come in from the countryside with fresh vegetables, preserves, fruits and natural remedies.

Laze By The Pool, Common You Deserve It!

Once you have well and truly done with walking around town, it’s time to relax by a pool and pat yourself on the back! There are many swimming clubs along the Corniche. Closest to Downtown is St George Yacht Club. For a modest fee (take this with a grain of salt) St George is a family friendly swimming club recently renovated with three pools, green grass to laze on, children’s playground and restaurant. The club has a marina linking to the upmarket promenade of Zaytouna Bay.

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Goodluck! Let us know how you went with your own discovery of Beirut. And feel free to add further suggestions in the comments box to share with our fabulous expat family community.

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Selected writings credit:
Design Sponge: Lebanon City GuideTimeOut Beirut
Beirut.com

Buckle Up, You're In For A Ride

How can I come to Lebanon and not blog about the traffic? It's the Achilles in every driver's heel!

There are two types of traffic conditions in Lebanon, the first being "gridlock". If you are in a car during rush hour in Beirut, you can sympathise with those Lebanese who say in despair that the country is going nowhere. The other is "kamikaze". Lebanon has it's own traffic rules and people's desperate means  to get from A to B is not for the fainthearted.

To be fair on Mikey, he is an excellent driver and I don't have a problem getting in the car with him. But for long distances, I'm a nervous passenger and he usually gives me a pep talk to help calm my nerves before driving off "Just remember to breathe okay, breathe in-out-in-out. Relaaaax just go with the flow...that's why I don't use the mirrors I'm only concerned about what's in front of me."

"yea, on-coming traffic HELLO!" I heckle back like a proper backseat driver.

Breathe in-out-in-out. 

To create a calm, yet joyful atmosphere in the car Mikey usually pops on a nursery-rhyme CD "for Mateo" he insists.  Heading down the highway, Mateo is safely strapped in his restraint in the backseat, blissfully clapping along to the music while I'm in the front seat intermitting between singing and screaming "if you're happy and you know it COVER YOUR EYES!" 

It's true, being the driver is better than being the unfortunate passenger who has to sit quiet and take in the 'scenery'. And from my observations of Mikey's new driving habits, and the habits of those sharing the road, it made me consider the 10 worst. Any of these sound familiar? 

1. Overtaking in to on-coming traffic around a bend: Oh C'mon, everyone has 20/20 vision, besides, there's enough room for everyone! 

2. Speeding: It's hard to keep up with the Porsche, Lamborghinis or Ferraris, that's behind you beeping it's horn and flashing it lights to move you along. 

3. Tailgating: If flashing the lights and beeping the horn just isn't enough, try dodging between cars - relax I promise to miss you by a millimetre. 

4. Not indicating: I'm sorry, what's indicating? if I just swerve towards people they'll move out of the way. 

5. Crossing solid white lines: What are these lines of which you speak? Maybe they're underneath the rubble. 

6. Not knowing which lane you should be in: Oh that's easy, the fastest one. 

7. Roundabouts: Make sure you never, ever give way. Sticking your arm out of the window to direct traffic is the best way to cut across as you're about to miss your exit. 

8. Queue jumping: Who said desert safari is only for the desert? Why have a 4 wheel drive if you can't mount the curb and push that little Asian car out of the way? 

9. Not wearing a seatbelt: But kids love the seatbelt to swing from like Tarzan, and jumping on mum's lap is so much fun while protruding their little heads out of the window. 

10. Driving on the phone: How else am I meant to have a conversation with the lady in the car next to me, check my facebook AND tweet my road-rage: #traffic #SUX :( 

So, have I missed any driving habits you'd like to share? Feel free to add to the comments box 

Taking Our First Steps

"The best way to see colourful Beirut is on foot" I repeatedly read in travel blogs. What no one tells you is "...if you use a kiddy stroller you may as well have one foot in the grave."

On our first walking expedition, we get off on the wrong foot. At 10am it’s already a scorcher outside, Mateo is having his morning sleep in the stroller while Mikey and I struggle to dodge potholes and fleeting cars. Ploughing through jagged pathways and absent mined pedestrians, we’re working up a sweat just trying to refrain Mateo from catapulting across the pavement. We make our first 50 metres in 50 minutes. Lovely. Both in a stitch, wet from head to toe, we’re ready to call it a day. Bystanders gawking at us say nothing but their faces said it all: “Ha! a stroller in Beirut?!?! Goodluck!”

Our map is useless because street names don’t correlate to street signs (a mind boggling topic for another post) so we vaguely make our own way to The Corniche. The waterfront esplanade is a popular destination where people stroll, strut their stuff, and socialize. We see ageing, overweight men jog and stop for cigarette breaks; teenage boys throwing fishing lines into the rocky waters below; young men smoking nargileh on their car hoods, combing their hair to catch the attention of speed-walking women wearing Ray-Bans and visors. 

 I soon realise The Corniche is the only pram-friendly pathway in Beirut but as our week rolls on the more stroller-savvy we become. 

Venturing further afield we cross the Green Line that divided the city between Christian East and Muslim West during the civil war. We weave and wind our way from Ras Beirut past St Georges Yacht Club to the flashy new Beirut Souk (mall) in Downtown. We take a pit stop at Place de l’Etoile and refuel on sickly-sweet lemonade. We leg it across Place des Martyrs and lunch in Gemmayzeh Street at Le Chef (no-frills kitchen serving the best Molokhia in town). In the blazing afternoon sun, we drag our feet to the air conditioned ABC (mall) in Achrafiyeh...ahhh.

To the untrained eye, one half of the city is rubble the other half is a mall. On closer observation you can pick up on the distinct architectural renderings of the urbanscape. Between the dilapidated buildings peppered with bullet holes you will discover the remains of Roman temples; marvel at centuries-old Mosques & Churches standing side-by-side; admire refurbished French-style mansions, and gaze up at multi-story apartments towering above. 

It’s a city under continual re-construction and I can't help but admire the Lebanese people not only for what they’ve been through but what they always seem to do after a crisis: they dig themselves out, dust themselves off, and start building once again. 

At the end of each field-trip we'd return to our apartment tired but feeling enriched from our expedition. The three of us would huddle around the bidet to wash  our tired, blistered feet (previous post explains the bidet story). Watching the sunset from our balcony, the sky paints a pretty picture with hues of pink and orange. The call to prayer from the mosque drifts through the air. The muezzin sounds melodically peaceful, offering time to reflect.

Getting around Beirut is definitely no walk in the park but well worth the experience. Together with discovering new sights, sounds and smells of the city we learnt about Lebanese hospitality which transcends age, class and religion. Pedestrians and shopkeepers alike would stop us on our tracks to wish Mateo the warmest of welcomes. Accompanying  handshakes, high-fives and pinched cheeks people would shout “MARHABA!” “KAFAK!” “AHLAN YA HABIBI!” It’s a wonderful Middle Eastern gesture that universally means ‘hello fellow friend!’ 

Being on the receiving end of so much kindness Mateo never failed to warmly respond. Although he is yet to speak a coherent word of any language he is still able to return the greeting with great joy: a big grin from ear-to-ear, uttering ‘eh! eh!’ eh!’ and a tentative twist of his little wrist. A gesture that would make anyone fall head over heels.

Finding Our Feet

Everyone is welcome in the Western neighbourhood of Hamra, it’s well known as Lebanon’s secular haven, playing host to people from all walks of life. It’s a central hub for students & expats, Christian & Muslims alike to mingle at sidewalk cafes, posh hotels, restaurants, bars and bookstores.

We spend our first weeks in Hamra, but to clarify, we’re not living a diplomat’s lifestyle, no 5-star hotels and no silver service, just good old fashioned DIY expat living.

Before landing in Beirut, in trepidation I booked our 3-Star accommodation online, which had no reviews so we were either in for a shocker or a winner. It’s neither. Our modest one-bedroom self-serviced apartment off Rue Hamra is basic but clean. Everything is at our doorstep - including traffic. Even though we’re a block back from the main thoroughfare, the traffic noise from the 2nd floor is so intense we may as well be lounging in our pyjamas in the middle of the road.

Sleep? What sleep! Never mind the clamor outside, we requested a cot for Mateo but the rickety old thing couldn’t hold itself together let alone my son, so the three of us piled into the small double bed. Mateo was the only one waking up fresh as a daisy. Mikey & I ached all over convinced our son was a ninja in his past life. His erratic/impulsive sidekick to the ribs and karate chop to the face are LETHAL.

Thankfully, we were kindly given an upgrade to a two-bedroom apartment on the 10th floor. What a difference 8 floors make! The lounge is spacious, kitchenette is well equipped & the master bedroom has a queen size bed. I’m in Heaven. Our little ninja moved into his very own headquarters converting his bedroom into a giant crib by jumbling together our suitcases, pieces of bedroom furniture and dining room chairs.

From our large balcony we had panoramic views across Ras Beirut, the Mediterranean Sea and Lebanon Hills. Elevated so high up felt like we were on top of the world. Truth be told, I nearly gagged from vertigo every time I looked down, nonetheless, relieved to have more breathing space from chaos down below. 

Reminiscent of the ocean views back in OZ it felt comforting to look out to The Med and recognise our small but significant achievement in finding a suitable temporary home. “We have found our feet in Beirut” I acknowledge to myself.

I was about to put mine up on the sofa when I heard a hullabaloo in the toilet - sounded more like spurting water followed by squeals of laughter - so I went to inspect. And there I caught Mateo’s head deep in the bidet bowl fascinated by his dad’s demonstration of the porcelain throne. I cry out “Mikey, why have you got your FOOT in the butt washer?” His response was priceless “It’s for washing your feet…no?” he innocently replies.

I wonder what other innovative uses the bidet can offer? I’m sure my fellow travel buddies have some ideas, I’d love to know.

Through the eyes of a child

Welcome to Lebanon! We are finally here in Beirut. Knowing very little about the country before leaving Australia, except its delicious food and it’s not so tasteful history, it still feels really exciting to be somewhere unfamiliar, giving us a fresh perspective on life. In fact, literally and metaphorically, we will be experiencing Beirut through the eyes of a child as the three of us learn a new way of life as an expat family.

Our flight into Beirut went without a hitch. As we began descending my nine-month old Mateo was sprawled out fast asleep on my lap while Michael and I observed from our tiny airplane window the lay of the land for the very first time. Bordered on one side by the Mediterranean, and on the other mountain ranges, Beirut seems a city suspended between the sky and the sea. From arid hills to lush forests, fertile plains to sprawling city it truly is a land of contrast, who knows what to expect down below.

 

Michael and I stared wide eyed at each other with the same nervous expression - this is it, we are actually going to live HERE!

As soon as we touched down at Beirut airport, the young customs lady took a real liking to Mateo, already he is learning to flirt with the ladies (oldies included) and all thanks to him our exit was swift. He even received kisses on the cheek on the way out! Who said travelling with a nine-month old to the Middle East was a bad idea? Lebanese people LOVE kids and I have a feeling Mateo is going to be our winning ticket in this country.

Along with our four oversized suitcases, a stroller and baby seat, we squished into a classic black Mercades taxi. The driver was dismissive as he watched Michael fix the baby seat to the backseat of his cab “Yoou’re wasting yoour time, no one uzez zem ‘ere” he smirks. The way he was driving - a “maniac” is an understatement - I was slightly relieved Mateo was strapped in.

It was literally a white-knuckle ride. While the driver had one eye on the road, the other on us, one hand on the horn, the other gripping a mobile phone, full pedal to the metal I braced myself for what felt like our one and only ride in Beirut.

As a distraction, not that the driver needed it, we made small talk to kill time (pun intended). With our mix of English, French and Arabic we interconnected words to make conversation. Looking at Mateo in the rear-view mirror the driver shouts in his thick accent, reiterating with hand gestures “Wherre are yoou from? Yoour sun looks like won of us, yani, loook at his fase, his skin and his eyez!”

When I explained that we’re a multinational family a mix of Australian, Swiss and Egyptian he was so chuffed because he lived several years in Switzerland, has cousins living in Sydney, and Lebanese people especially like their Egyptian neighbours, so we’re definitely in the good books. “Yoou w’ll have no broblem ‘ere we like Ejypshians, they’re veery friendly! You are veery wellcom ‘ere” he warmly replies.

Thankfully we arrived at the serviced apartment in Hamra with shot nerves but in one piece. Feeling too tired to go out for dinner we ordered our first home delivery, a mixed grilled platter for two that could feed the Lebanese Army. Watching Arabic pop videos on cable TV stuffing ourselves with our oversizes feast of meat, dips, pickles, salad & Lebanese bread I looked across at Michael who’s reflecting the same smirk on his face - this is it we ARE actually living here! Its early days I know but I feel that we are going to be very happy in Beirut, I'll keep you posted.