Discover Beirut: A Guide for Parents with Baby-in-tow

Get on board our joyride through Beirut

Welcome to my urban guide of Beirut for parents with young kiddies. We all know (or will soon find out) there is a lack of green, baby-friendly, eco-food-friendly, cultural places around Beirut - but I am about the challenge this notion!

In my early days living in Beirut I blogged about our dicey experience walking around town with our son, who was only 9 months old at the time [you can read it here]. Since then, I learnt a few tips and tricks about how to navigate this city on foot and would like to share these with my fellow disgruntled parents who don’t have the confidence to tour Beirut with young babies and toddlers.

 My mission is a genuine need to fill-the-gap with our online expat and tourist community planning to come to Beirut with small children wanting to delve deeper into the city’s many cultural and historic attractions. Whether it’s architecture, outdoor space, creative arts, or healthy eco-food your after, than this guide is for you.

Don’t be stuck in a mall! My hope is to empower parents to get out and discover Beirut on foot, or if you’re not so daring, hop into a service taxi for a few Lebanese Pounds (haggle, haggle, haggle!).

TOP TIPS: Walking around Beirut with a child is not an easy task and is recommended as a two-person job. Avoid walking in the middle of the day during the summer months. And don’t rush it take baby-steps till you get more confident navigating the roads.

All you need is your wits, a light-weight stroller or sling (I can’t stress this enough, your back will be ever so grateful) a smart-phone with GPS (essential - maps are useless here), water, camera, bathers, and a healthy appetite!

View all of the listings mentioned below (and more) on this GoogleMap  
Enjoy!
Mum at Large.

ACHRAFIEH

St-Nicolas Garden Achrafieh

Achrafieh is one of the oldest, historically Christian neighborhoods in east Beirut with a distinct French flavor. Neo-Ottoman styled homes, elegant mansions & towering modern residences line the narrow, winding streets that house a multitude of shops*, restaurants, cafés and many old churches like the St. Nicholas Cathedral, built in 1876.

*If you are looking for eco-products and organic produce A New Earth Organic Store is in Achrafieh, 65 Zahret el Ihsan Street (very close to ABC Mall) open Monday to Saturday 10am – 7pm.

Walking Tour A

There are some architectural treasures that survived bombings during the civil war, including the grand Sursock Palace and Gardens once the private home of the landowning Sursock family and now a modern art museum; the government office of Palais de Bustros; and Barakat House, currently being redesigned as an urban art and cultural centre called Beit Beirut.

Walking Tour B

Just west of St George Hospital in Getawi District you can wind your way through the undiscovered, narrow residential streets where you will find retired French-speaking ladies, gentlemen and housemaids going about their daily business at a very s.l.o.w pace. On Sundays' the streets are an eerie ghost-town.

If you can ignore the many construction sites, it’s almost believable that time has stood still here. There are several small bakeries serving traditional pizzas, as well as, fruit shops, and novelty brick-a-brack stores in the surrounding streets of Jesuit Garden; a lovely, quiet park to pull-up under a shady tree to eat your delicious goodies.

Jesuit Garden: a hidden gem in Achrafieh

Jesuit Garden is a well-maintained park with an excellent children’s playground (one of very few in Beirut which I also listed on google maps). Opposite the playground are archeological remains from the Ancient Roman period. I’ve found great photographic material here taking snaps of local characters occupying their usual spots.

Walking Tour C

When winding your way down from Achrafieh to Armenia Street towards the neighbourhood of Mar Mikhael (alternative route is to head to Gemmayzeh and Downtown) check out the colourful staircases nestled between shops and apartment, exploding in wonderful mosaic colours. Painting Up Beirut is a community initiative to liven up dull concrete spaces, making your walk experience all the more joyful!

One of many colourful stairways in Achrafieh

MAR MIKHAEL

Mar Mikhael is the new alternative hotspot spilling over from Gemmayzeh’s restaurant & bar area. Traditionally known as a more industrial hub for hardware shops, car parts and furniture, it is fast becoming a culturally and gastronomically diversified hub of eco-friendly restaurants, as well as, bars and galleries showcasing new and established local artists.

The neighbourhood of Mar Mikhael begins at the end of Gemmayzeh Street (aka Gouraud St) near Électricité Du Liban, which becomes Armenia Street (aka Mar Michael Street) and runs down to Nahr Street, which separates it from the Bourj Hammoud neighborhood.

Unforgettable Eco-Dining Experiences

Tawlet: serving up mouth-watering Lebanese specialty dishes

For lunch head to Tawlet. An outstanding Lebanese eco-food dining experience to tickle your tastebuds, presented by Souk el Tayeb Kamal Mouzaeak (see Downtown section for further detail on the farmer’s market). The chef-of-the-day cooks her/his personal and regional specialties with organic produce in an airy surroundings of white tiles, wooden shelves, clever recycled lighting and fresh flowers. Tawlet has an open buffet with authentic salads, mezze, plates and desserts. Wine lovers won’t be disappointed with Tawlet’s wine list and Beer 961.

*Book ahead on weekends call 01 448129 Mon-Fri 1pm- 6pm; Sat 12pm-4pm

For an early dinner delight head to The Junkyard, an underground “pop-up” concept restaurant off Armenia Street, tucked in an old car park facing the old bus graveyard. The recycled-furniture design and layout makes it the perfect wonderland for my son. After a long day’s walk this is the best outdoor place to kick-back in the early evening and have fun with friends.

The Junkyard: a backyard hangout space with style

The Junkyard is owned by Chef Tomas Reger, executive chef of Le Sushi bar in Achrafieh, and Mario Jr. Haddad. Integrating their slow-food movement ‘Food For Thought’, the menu changes daily depending on the fresh produce and other ingredients available at the market.

Having had the chance to talk to Chef Reger a few times, it’s nice to be remembered and welcomed! It’s a delight to sit in the garden area with friends and taste the day’s simple and trendy creations accompanied by calm music for our child to fall asleep to. Bliss.

* Book ahead call 03945961; Mon-Sat from 6pm. Don't hesitate, open till Oct 31 2012.

Local Artistic & Musical Talent

On your way to or from the restaurants in Mar Mikhael stop off at Plan Bey Gallery a small boutique gallery and bookshop, more inclined towards supporting local artists without the mass gallery hype. The friendly staff will give you an insightful background of their artists and works.

I am a music buff and always on the lookout for fresh new sounds and talent. Radio Beirut café-bar hosts live music and artistic performances from emerging and established artists around Beirut and beyond. You’re probably wondering why I’ve included it in my baby-friendly guide? Alas! If going out to see a gig is not an option, don’t fret, this club comes to you! The music is broadcast online live via their digital radio portal. Dance around at home with a glass of your choice in hand while baby’s fast asleep - music to your ears wouldn’t you say?

GEMMAYZEH

Charm behind every door.

A fairly short walk from Downtown city center are Gemmayzeh & Monot, which is technically in Achrafieh. Gemmayzeh Street contains a large portion of Beirut’s clubs, cafes and restaurants. During the day it’s relatively quiet so it’s easy to walk around the neighborhood to photograph the beautiful historic buildings or rummage through antique stores, homeware and souvenir shops. The best equipped souvenir shop is L’Artisanat Libanai and sales support Lebanese craftsmen in need.

A Cool Collective Eating Experience 

Located on the calmer side of Gemmayzeh on Pasteur Street is The Gathering, this new concept of collective dining will charm you. Sustainably re-designed around three traditional Lebanese houses, renovated in a tasteful way, each house is devoted to a different service: a pub, a steak house and an Italian kitchen, all connected by one open courtyard. It's great for kids to run around while parents enjoy delectable dishes under the olive tree (don’t forget your camera).

* Open for lunch or dinner. Call 961-156-6196

HAMRA

Breeze along The Corniche

On the west side of Beirut, Hamra Street is often considered the intellectual and business hub of Beirut, thanks to its secular history and proximity to many of Beirut’s most important universities, including the American University of Beirut (AUB). Historically, the abundance of cafés and theatres made Hamra a gathering spot for many Arab thinkers, writers, and artists and was Beirut’s trendiest neighborhood in Lebanon’s 1960–1970s heyday.

The ‘authentic’ appeal of Hamra, in addition to the number of hotels, bars, Western chains like Starbucks, and shops, make the area very appealing to tourists and expats.

Walking Tour A

The Corniche is a baby-stroller breeze! The 5kms stretch of boardwalk begins at St. George Bay and ends at the intersection of Avenue Général de Gaulle and Avenue Rafic Hariri. This palm tree-lined seaside promenade is popular with joggers, cyclists, and families out for a stroll enjoying beautiful views of the Mediterranean.

Pigeons' Rock: Beirut's famous landmark

The two huge rock formations at Raouché, known as Pigeons’ Rock, jut out of the sea next to the Corniche. There are plenty of cafés with a view of Pigeons’ Rock — try timing your visit with the sunset or sunrise for a great photo op.

Walking Tour B

The American University of Beirut (AUB) is one of the oldest and most-respected higher education institutions in Lebanon. Established in 1866, this urban college has a beautiful 61-acre campus overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Pack a picnic, take a stroll around the campus and explore the excellent collection of artifacts at The AUB Archaeological Museum.

Lush green grounds of AUB

For an alternative tour of AUB walk around the parameter walls; it serves as canvas with all graffiti styles on display. And if you are searching for a healthy food alternative among all the fast-food joints along Bliss Street opposite AUB, head straight to Food 101. They serve up sandwiches and salad and hot western food.

The Best Coffee House and Bake House in Beirut

There is only one café in Beiut in my opinion that takes their coffee as seriously as I do Café Younes. Since 1935 barristers continue serve up high quality coffee that is freshly roasted and ground on the premises. Café Younes is a smoke-free coffee house that you could consider as your second home - I do!

You can smell the nostalgia in the air; imagining artists, poets, and journalists working away on their coffee-stained pages. Thankfully, Café Younes has survived and thrived as a local cultural hub hosting regular cultural activities such as exhibitions, music, and poetry reading.

Bread Republic is an artisan bakery and eatery serving healthy, yeast-free bread, pies, tarts and all things delicious. All-day breakfast and lunch menu is available, including salads, pastas, risottos and sandwiches all made with speciality bread. Bread Republic hosts Souq El Tayab’s farmer’s market every Tuesday.

Photographic Studio,  Bistro & Bookshop in One

Located in the heart of Hamra is Dar Bistro on Roma Street, an oasis from the hustle and bustle of Hamra Steet. The peaceful, green-lined courtyard is a lovely place to retreat and eat great food, fine drinks in a friendly atmosphere. Inside the premise is smoke-free and there is a boutique bookshop to browse through a hand-picked selection of titles.

The top floor is taken up by the Dar al Mussawir, a photographic community space hosting workshops and organises a monthly exhibition in the bistro.

*Call 01 37 33 48 or 01 76 15 84 29

DOWNTOWN

Love it or loath it, the shiny new heart of Beirut has risen from the rubble. For many years during and after the war this was a no-man’s land until it was rebuild largely by one developer, Solidere. Many of the buildings left standing have been caught in a demolish-or-renovate battle, resulting in a mix of old and new, and Eastern and Western architecture styles.

The Heart of Downtown

I will not go into detail here about this well covered tourist spot but I will suggest visiting Ottsworld blog-post WalkBeirut . This is the best, comprehensive explanation of Sherry’s experience with Walking Tour of Beirut. You may not be aware that children under 12, babies in strollers or straps, are not permitted on the Walking Tour, but don’t let that spoil your fun! Why not load Sherry’s post on your smart phone, and use it as your guide of Downtown and many of the locations I have listed above? (If you enjoyed her tour, send her warm ‘thank you’ because she has done us parents a huge favour.)

Organic Farmer's Market Lebanese Style

Souk el Tayeb, food from the farm straight to you.

My suggestion is go early Saturday morning for a tour around Downtown to catch the morning light for best photographic op, and once your done, head to Souk El Tayeb for brunch at Beirut Souqs a real farmers’ markets where the actual producers come in from the countryside with fresh vegetables, preserves, fruits and natural remedies.

Laze By The Pool, Common You Deserve It!

Once you have well and truly done with walking around town, it’s time to relax by a pool and pat yourself on the back! There are many swimming clubs along the Corniche. Closest to Downtown is St George Yacht Club. For a modest fee (take this with a grain of salt) St George is a family friendly swimming club recently renovated with three pools, green grass to laze on, children’s playground and restaurant. The club has a marina linking to the upmarket promenade of Zaytouna Bay.

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Goodluck! Let us know how you went with your own discovery of Beirut. And feel free to add further suggestions in the comments box to share with our fabulous expat family community.

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Selected writings credit:
Design Sponge: Lebanon City GuideTimeOut Beirut
Beirut.com

Byblos

I've heard from the locals that it get "really" hot until July, and in August you just stop looking at the temperature as it all becomes irrelevant, it's just hot. The heat and humidity is so overpowering that walking outside feels like an outdoor sauna. And when the sun sinks, the temperature stubbornly refused to follow suit. 

Lessons already learnt. Do not attempt to walk in the middle of the day unless you plan to get heat stroke. Do not tell a local "it's really starting to get hot" unless you wish to be ridiculed. HOT?! Ha! This isn't hot?! 

Either stay indoors in air-conditioned rooms or ditch Beirut for somewhere cooler as many locals seem to do. For our first weekend escaped we head to the coastal town of Byblos (aka Jbeil). On a good run, Byblos is a 40min drive north of Beirut and it's a beautiful town that has it all: history, sea, souq, and seafood. 

Byblos has experienced a kind of rebirth since it's prewar heyday, a popular beach holiday destination and emerged as a stage for big bands - this month BB King, Slash and Snow Patrol graced it's shores. 

To the south of the ancient port is the glitzy playground of luxury beach resorts packed with bikini-clad, gold aviator shade partygoers; and to the north is more laid-back, family friendly Byblos. Unable to fit our 'wealth' and 'glamour' into our oversized bags stuffed with baby paraphernalia, we chose the north side. 

One of few beachfront budget hotels is Ahiram Hotel. True, the rooms are not like those of the Four Seasons, but it's rustic, friendly, well maintained, every room has an ocean-view balcony and access to the FREE public beach below. Best of all, 70's posters of Lebanon's landmarks hanging on nearly every wall in the hotel blissfully puts me in a relaxed, nostalgic state-of-mind. 

Waiting for the heat of the day to pass, the three of us lay on our bed enjoying a lazy slumber. The breeze carries the sound of the waves and children playing down below crash, squeal, crash, squeal. The sound transported me back to my childhood of summer holidays spent at sleepy seaside towns. 

In the early evening, we catch up with friends and take a brief history tour through the old town. It's an ancient port framed by pre-Roman ruins. The earliest record of Byblos dates back 5000 BC and believed to be the oldest continuously inhabited city. The small Neolithic fishing community developed into a major commercial port for ancient Egyptian seafarers buying cedar and is also the birthplace of our modern alphabet.

Following the winding road within the old port, we meander our way through a warren of cobbled streets, passing an old stone school and church. 

You can catch sight of a blue-domed mosque before walking through a stone archway which brings you to the beautifully restored old souq selling Phoenician-themed knickknacks and Lebanese kitsch. 

The striking brown stone walls of the Crusader citadel, Phoenicain ramparts, and Bronze Age ruins seem to want to talk about battles lost and won long, long ago. 

Dinner at Byblos-Sur-Mer is a must. The restaurant has an open terrace right on the port offering an exceptional view and a welcomed cool breeze. We feasted on mezze and mouth-watering catch of the day. Sipping on chilled wine, watching a spectacular sunset and enjoying great company is the perfect combination for a chilled evening. 

We look forward to more trips to Byblos for weekend escapes, especially when opposing August temperatures expect to hit new highs.

Taking Our First Steps

"The best way to see colourful Beirut is on foot" I repeatedly read in travel blogs. What no one tells you is "...if you use a kiddy stroller you may as well have one foot in the grave."

On our first walking expedition, we get off on the wrong foot. At 10am it’s already a scorcher outside, Mateo is having his morning sleep in the stroller while Mikey and I struggle to dodge potholes and fleeting cars. Ploughing through jagged pathways and absent mined pedestrians, we’re working up a sweat just trying to refrain Mateo from catapulting across the pavement. We make our first 50 metres in 50 minutes. Lovely. Both in a stitch, wet from head to toe, we’re ready to call it a day. Bystanders gawking at us say nothing but their faces said it all: “Ha! a stroller in Beirut?!?! Goodluck!”

Our map is useless because street names don’t correlate to street signs (a mind boggling topic for another post) so we vaguely make our own way to The Corniche. The waterfront esplanade is a popular destination where people stroll, strut their stuff, and socialize. We see ageing, overweight men jog and stop for cigarette breaks; teenage boys throwing fishing lines into the rocky waters below; young men smoking nargileh on their car hoods, combing their hair to catch the attention of speed-walking women wearing Ray-Bans and visors. 

 I soon realise The Corniche is the only pram-friendly pathway in Beirut but as our week rolls on the more stroller-savvy we become. 

Venturing further afield we cross the Green Line that divided the city between Christian East and Muslim West during the civil war. We weave and wind our way from Ras Beirut past St Georges Yacht Club to the flashy new Beirut Souk (mall) in Downtown. We take a pit stop at Place de l’Etoile and refuel on sickly-sweet lemonade. We leg it across Place des Martyrs and lunch in Gemmayzeh Street at Le Chef (no-frills kitchen serving the best Molokhia in town). In the blazing afternoon sun, we drag our feet to the air conditioned ABC (mall) in Achrafiyeh...ahhh.

To the untrained eye, one half of the city is rubble the other half is a mall. On closer observation you can pick up on the distinct architectural renderings of the urbanscape. Between the dilapidated buildings peppered with bullet holes you will discover the remains of Roman temples; marvel at centuries-old Mosques & Churches standing side-by-side; admire refurbished French-style mansions, and gaze up at multi-story apartments towering above. 

It’s a city under continual re-construction and I can't help but admire the Lebanese people not only for what they’ve been through but what they always seem to do after a crisis: they dig themselves out, dust themselves off, and start building once again. 

At the end of each field-trip we'd return to our apartment tired but feeling enriched from our expedition. The three of us would huddle around the bidet to wash  our tired, blistered feet (previous post explains the bidet story). Watching the sunset from our balcony, the sky paints a pretty picture with hues of pink and orange. The call to prayer from the mosque drifts through the air. The muezzin sounds melodically peaceful, offering time to reflect.

Getting around Beirut is definitely no walk in the park but well worth the experience. Together with discovering new sights, sounds and smells of the city we learnt about Lebanese hospitality which transcends age, class and religion. Pedestrians and shopkeepers alike would stop us on our tracks to wish Mateo the warmest of welcomes. Accompanying  handshakes, high-fives and pinched cheeks people would shout “MARHABA!” “KAFAK!” “AHLAN YA HABIBI!” It’s a wonderful Middle Eastern gesture that universally means ‘hello fellow friend!’ 

Being on the receiving end of so much kindness Mateo never failed to warmly respond. Although he is yet to speak a coherent word of any language he is still able to return the greeting with great joy: a big grin from ear-to-ear, uttering ‘eh! eh!’ eh!’ and a tentative twist of his little wrist. A gesture that would make anyone fall head over heels.